Reply To: 365Gl Seacock Replacement

Hi
I have a 45P like Andrews. I have replaced all my seacocks and skin fittings with Trudesign ones over the last couple of seasons and fitted numerous others over the last 20 years.
I fitted the countersunk skin fittings, ex the 2” holding tank ones, that are not available in countersunk.
I use a thick epoxy glue mix to bond to the hull (but applied no more glue than to just the thread that penetrates the hull, when dried, I crack the nuts off and apply a Sika 291 under the washers for good measure and retighten the nuts with minimal torque)
Remove the levers if necessary to fit (just a Philips screw)
I determine the length, with the skin fitting thread bottomed out in the ball valve and a 2 thread fitted clearance from the nuts, cut down the skin fitting with a multitool. (this to minimize leverage, Trudesign also sell some load bearing collars, but I personally think this is overkill unless you think your valves will come under an extraordinary load, I have always found the glued in ones to be very solid)
Dry fit everything including 120degree elbows, determine the correct position of the levers so they do not clash or obstruct anything, mark their closed position on the hull. Take a photo of this showing the exact angle of the elbows to pipes, so you replicated on final assembly.
Note that the Trudesign 1” valve has a ¾ clear opening. (For my galley sink I upsized to 1 ¼”)
I have no 1 ½”’ valves currently, but note these only have a 1 ¼” clear opening.
Trudesign do not make 120degree elbows for ½, ¾, or 1 ¼. It is a mission to find other manufactures who do these BSP, but most end up using BSPT, just ensure you have a reasonable thread engagement.
The blue plastic Thru hull installation tools to hold the skin fittings whilst installing are well worth their low cost.
To further add to what has already been covered;
Where installation is tight (you cannot rotate onto the skin fitting even with the lever removed), you will need a second person for the job, as you will need to screw the skin fitting, into the skin fitting washer / nut / ball valve and possibly even with the elbow, from the outside (whilst someone holds the valve inside in position).
I have found Sika 291 to be best for sealing the skin-fitting to the valve, but take care not to apply too deep into the thread of the valve, that the excess mounts up and restricts the opening at the ball. (this can be removed from the outside when dry, taking a lot of care not the damage the ball)
The best of luck
Gordon